History, Origin and Significance of Mud Cloth

by

Kimberly Michelle Jones, Africana Graduate Student

Bogolanfini ("Bo-ho-lahn-FEE-nee”), which translates as "mud cloth” is a long established tradition among the Bamana, a Mande speaking people who inhabit a large area to the east and north of Bamako in Mali¹. The origin of this cloth is believed to lie in the Beledougou region of central Mali. Hand woven and hand-dyed mudcloth uses a centuries old process using numerous applications of various plant juices/teas and mud to dye hand woven cotton cloth².

Traditionally, Bamana women made the mud cloth³. Bogolonfin, for Bamana women, has always been an essential component in the marking of major life transitions, such as birth, marriage, and death. Bogolanfini is a living art form, with techniques and motifs passed down from generations of mothers to daughters⁴. Bamana hunters also wear Bogolanfini in the form of red mudcloth laden with leather amulets, forceful visual symbols of the supernatural powers believed necessary for successful hunters to possess⁵. Each piece of mudcloth tells a story. No two pieces are alike and each pattern and color combination has a meaning⁶. The symbols, arrangements, color as well as shape of the mudcloth reveal secrets. The mudcloth is also used to define a person’s social status, character or occupation⁷. Bogolanfini is an expression of Malian national identity and a symbol of belonging to African culture⁸.

Preparation

Cotton is grown locally and harvested, hand spun and then prepared for the looming process. The looming process begins when men, using small hand or double heddle looms, weave the cotton into long strips, called finimugu. These thin strips, typically seven in number (but anywhere from 5 to 9 or more), are them sewn together to create a panel ranging from approximately 32”x48” to 45”x72” ⁹. From this point on the women usually take over preparation of the mudcloth. Women are the artists creating the designs and each have their own technique and style of preparing the cloth¹⁰.

Steps¹¹

1. The cloth is washed in boiling water to shrink it to its final size.
2. After drying, it is then soaked in a special solution of pounded leaves from the Bogolon tree, which is native to Mali, the cengura tree. The solution used is a dark solution and enables the fabric to absorb the mud dye. The cloth now takes on a yellowish color, which will fade slightly while drying in the sun.
3. The mud dye is made from iron rich mud, collected from ponds mixed with water, set aside and allowed to ferment for up to a year, allowing it to become black. This mud is then used to paint designs on the cloth, being sure to saturate the area with the mud dye.
4. The mud dye is painted on the cloth using sticks, reeds, strips of bamboo, palm fiber brushes, feathers and other tools, only the background is painted leaving the design untouched. The active ingredient in the mud dye is iron oxide, which is converted by tannic acid in the leaf solutions into a dye of iron tannate.

Picture taken from African Textiles and Dyeing Technique by Claire Polakoff.

5. Once the cloth is dry from the mud dye it will again be washed in a different solution of leaves, grasses and herbs to ensure the mud is bound to the cloth.
6. Sometimes a second of third coat of the mud dye is applied to achieve dark and bright colors.
7. After all the coats of the mud dye have been set, the cloth is given a wash and rinse in a solution made from boiling leaves, which serves to further enhance the color.
8. The final step in making mudcloth is bleaching. Bleaching is where a caustic soda, called Sodani, is applied to the yellow areas of the cloth (the design), where the mud dye was not applied. This solution bleaches these yellow areas leaving them white so they design may stand out from the mud dyed areas.

Colors of Mudcloth

As stated earlier, the colors of mudcloth represent different meanings, tell stories,
or portray a proverb¹². Although mudcloths with a black background and white design are considered the traditional coloring of the cloth, other colors are used. A rust color is supposed to represent the strong supernatural powers that protect the hunter. It also signifies blood from either the hunt of from warfare and is useful as a form of camouflage. Women and girls typically wear the color white during ceremonial events. Gray is a rarely seen color but like rust, it serves as a camouflage for hunters. To the disdain of the older generation, untraditional colors such as reds, purples, yellows and oranges are now being used¹³.

. Patterns of Mud Cloth There are so many patterns that have meaning that it is difficult to find precise meanings -- different people have different meanings that they will give to the same pattern or color combination. Some meanings differ depending on the region, ethnic group, or individual. So don't be surprised if someone tells you a meaning different than those identified here. That's why it's important to find information from as many different sources as possible to avoid individual biases. Following are ten of the more common patterns and their meanings that you may find in a piece of mud cloth. There are other symbols which you may also find in your mud cloth if you look closely -- the patterns and varieties are endless. Because mud cloth is often meant to be interpreted there are sometimes long discussions among the artisans about how the patterns should be put together. Many times, however, there is no symbolic meaning: the colors and patterns are simply meant to be beautiful.
			This pattern depicts wealth and luxury. It is said to represent the cushions of wealthy woman from the Mauritania area. These woman don't have to work, just put their heads on pillows.
			This is one of the more common mud cloth symbols. It represents the talking drum, which is used to call warriors to battle as well as to frighten animals while hunting.
			This pattern reflects the love of family and community. The circle represents the house of the family and the dot in the middle is the family. It is said to represent a unity between the family members.
			This represents a bed of bamboo and millet leaves. It is said that this pattern is used by a woman who wishes to show her superiority to a co-wife. However, the pattern is extremely popular, so it is not always assumed that a woman wearing it is making that assumption.
			This pattern has a unique story behind it. A farmer had a sickle he particularly liked. It worked well for him and he thought it deserved its own pattern. So this pattern is named the back of the sickles blade.
			An interesting pattern, which refers to the bone of the snake.
			When wearing a cloth with this design a person is signifying that they are brave and fearless. This pattern represents a belt worn by warriors when they went off to battle.
			Iguana's elbow. A very common pattern. Iguana's are common in some areas of Africa. This pattern is said to represent good fortune as an Iguana can lead a hunter to water. The Iguana is also symbolic of African born people in warfare with foreign powers.
			This pattern represents the spindle used in weaving cloth fabrics, including mud cloths. A very old and traditional design.
			This is another pattern that is found often on mud cloths. It represents the flower of the calabash.